Let ’em eat cake

By Christine Bordelon

While there are many king cake makers in New Orleans today, it is interesting to note that several local businesses that sell the most king cakes are owned by Catholic families. They agreed that the king cake did not start off being as synonymous with Mardi Gras as it is today.
 

Gambino’s Bakery, which has been around the longest, traces its tradition back to 1949, said owner Sam Scelfo. Joe Gambino began making a traditional, sweet Danish dough with cinnamon king cake. Fillings weren’t added until the early 1970s, he said. New flavors this year include Nutella-filled and fig. And, king cake balls, made from actual king cakes, are a huge seller.
 

Scelfo said the king-cake craze didn’t start until the late 1970s or early ’80s “when Mardi Gras became more of a national phenomenon and NOLA citizens relocated to cities like Atlanta, Los Angeles and Washington, D.C. The press became more aware of Mardi Gras, and NOLA started getting more coverage on Carnival. As Mardi Gras awareness increased, so did interest in king cakes.”
 

For Gambino’s, king cakes are a large part of the bakery’s business, selling approximately 200,000 king cakes year-round.
 

“People have Mardi Gras themed parties year-round,” Scelfo said. “Destination weddings especially love having king cakes at their wedding, no matter the date of the wedding.”